Our extended family has taken two 7-day New Year’s cruises
in rapid annual succession out of Galveston (last year and this year). While this is not the style of vacation
preferred by my outdoorsy husband and I, cruising can be a convenient option
for large groups like ours, which is characterized by a seven-decade age
spread.
There are a number of websites in which a person can become
mired in the minutiae of cruise reviews and details. Cruise Critic has
reportedly risen to the top as a source for information exchange, but it's commercial, so beware (to my way of thinking, the user review boards are the most valuable part, but I don't know if they are culled in any way).
Rather
than analyze our two cruises to death, I thought I’d pass along some general
observations and humorous anecdotal lessons learned.
Bottom line in case you want to skip all these words and maybe
skip the pictures, too: If you are an
active person more concerned with the quality of the cultural experience than
with endless food bingeing, self-indulgent trinket-buying, and mindless passive
entertainment, pick your cruise based on the ports of call that it visits,
rather than based on the identity of the cruise line or the ship. And plan your excursions in advance with the
assistance of independent reviews. If
instead you are into the whole cruise drinking and gambling and sunbathing
entertainment mentality, I don’t have any advice for you, because I have no
experience with those facets of it.
OK - now for the longer version, with slide show.
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Our first trip was on the Carnival Magic, and it
was scheduled only a couple of months after Magic first moved to Galveston, so
both the ship and its crew seemed very fresh to us. This is a pic of the Magic moored in
Galveston last week. We found that both
the food and the food service were better on the Magic, which surprised us
because Carnival has a reputation of being a low-rent district (and in fact the
stateroom charges were significantly lower than Royal Caribbean’s (RC’s)
corresponding charges). |
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Our second trip was on RC’s Mariner of the Seas, here shown
moored off the coast of Belize a few days ago.
I took this pic from a tender, but more on that further down in this
post.
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Carnival’s check-in process was an absolute nightmare, in my
opinion. There was no place to wait
indoors, so we stood outside in line for almost two hours before even making it
to the security screeners in the Port of Galveston Terminal 1 building. It was so cold outside that the terminal
staff had to pull families with babies and senior citizens out of the line and
cut them in front, because the very old and the very young simply couldn’t bear
the cold for that long.
RC’s check-in process in Terminal 2 was much more humane,
with easy access to a climate-controlled interior waiting area with comfortable
seating. When you’re wrangling five children,
these things are important. However, RC’s
check-out process was an absolute nightmare (in my
opinion). It took 1.5 hours of shuffling through the line simply to
progress from our stateroom to the US Customs desk in the terminal. Whereas checking out of the Magic had been comparatively easy.
Sorry if font size and spacing issues are manifesting - that's Blogger's fault.
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Here’s a pic of Magic’s central entertainment deck, shown at
night, obviously. I found the design to
be sleek and less cluttered than its RC counterpart.
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Here is Mariner’s entertainment deck, which I found to be
more claustrophobic. There wasn’t as much
open space here for little kids to bounce around like they must do. Mariner seemed to have less of a family
emphasis (that flying saucer looking thing with all the windows above the deck
is reserved for the consumption of alcohol).
However, Mariner did have more swimming pools than Magic, I think.
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Boarding and security processes aside, getting to
the embarkation entails a mere 30 minute drive down the freeway for us! And a cruise ship offers a great vantage
point for gawking at Galveston. |
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Galveston Ship Channel. I began my latest career phase on this
waterway twenty years ago, so I am fond of its unique industrial beauty. |
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Seeing Galveston Island for the first time in the rear view
mirror… wow. It seems so much more
fragile and vulnerable than it does when one’s feet are planted on the ground
of it. It’s just a tiny wisp of sand
barely clinging to the rim of a vast and temperamental body of water.
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Our Magic cruise last year visited three destinations on the
Yucatan peninsula of Mexico: Costa Maya,
Cozumel, and Progreso. I don’t recommend
this sequence because the activity options for two of those ports of call are so
limited (in my opinion).
This is the stunning view upon approaching Costa Maya, but
guess what?
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There’s basically no walking access to anything
outside of the Carnival-owned pier and trinket area. You are not permitted to set a toe on the
beach shown above because those surrounding areas are private property. You can wander into the little town on the
other side of the cruise wall, but there’s not much there. |
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With relatively little easily-accessible activity to choose
from at this location, we splurged and enrolled three of our older kids in this
dolphin encounter, which turned out to be a better quality experience than we expected. These dolphins seemed genuinely happy and
well cared for, believe it or not. But
note that there were two cruise ships docked on the same day in what is really
just a small commercialized area. It was terribly congested.
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Progreso is mostly an industrial port accessible by a long
man-made dike which extends to the mainland (analogous to the Texas City Dike). The only way out of there is by
motor vehicle. This is a pic of the port
at night. Once again, I have a
professional fondness for industrial ports, but I don’t necessarily wish to be
looking at one from my cruise ship balcony.
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From Progreso, we did a cruise-sponsored excursion to the
Mayan ruins at Uxmal, which was definitely worth it. But holy crap, it was a long drive. Doesn’t look that way on this map, but it was grueling.
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I don’t know what any of the other regional Mayan ruins are
like, but the UNESCO World Heritage site Uxmal is wonderful. Worth the
discomfort of a local bus for a few hours (has there ever been any such thing
as a decent Mexican bus?!). Nota
bene: The prices in the Uxmal visitors’
center gift shop are in pesos, not dollars, and there are some really good
deals to be had in there. Actual arts
and crafts, not just tourist trinkets and mass-produced junk.
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Cozumel is a must-do for all western Caribbean
cruises, apparently. They all seem to
stop there, and both our Carnival and RC cruises did. On our Magic trip, we did one of those
two-reef snorkel excursions, which was good for kids with limited swimming
abilities (the vendor provided floatation devices as well as other equipment). The water is really this exact color, which
is worth seeing just for the sake of seeing it… |
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… but otherwise, Cozumel is mostly a gigantic parking lot
for cruise ships, in my opinion. This year, there were
two Carnival ships (one of the pair can’t be seen from this angle), two RC
ships, including their monstrous-class vessel shown here as the filling in this cruise ship sandwich…
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…and three or four more we couldn’t identify from a distance. Do the math on this one – that’s tens of thousands of cruisers all squeezed into this one small alcohol-ridden area at the same time – I personally see no sense in participating in the likes of that. If you don’t book a good excursion away from the crowds, you might not even want to bother disembarking at this port.
Years ago, I traveled to Cozumel and at the recommendation of a close friend, spent the extra money to stay at the Presidente Intercontinental hotel. If I were doing a non-extended-family trip, that’s the only place to which I would return. Beautiful hotel, great service, private beach and extensive grounds, away from the crowd. I would rather go to a place like that one time than stay three times at some budget hotel swarming with party-pig tourists. When I was at the Presidente in 2000, they had guys with machine guns guarding the front entrance to it. And my child, at that time a toddler, had a section of the private beach to herself.
On our Mariner cruise into Cozumel, I booked a horseback riding excursion, but they moved it three hours earlier in the day without making the change clear, and as a result, we missed it. I confirmed multiple times with the sales agent that she booked the correct cruise, but she neglected to mention the rescheduling. They gave us a full refund because of the confusion that this caused, but we were still left without an excursion that day. Even if you go with a cruise-sponsored excursion, you can’t be too careful in booking these things because of the last-minute stuff that can pop up, I have learned. |
Whereas the Carnival cruise went to Mexico only, the RC
cruise went to three different countries.
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Our first Mariner port of call was the island of Roatan, off
the coast of Honduras. We started with a
self-guided tour through the poverty-ridden local town. There were numerous vendors all selling
tourist trinkets and I was almost unsuccessful in locating the only thing I
intend to buy: authentic arts and crafts made by individuals to whom a fair sum
of money returns (to the extent that I can verify this in a third-world
country). I don't feel compelled to single-handedly save the world, but I believe that Fair Trade commerce is mutually beneficial.
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Well, I did buy this mass-produced little turned wooden
container from an old woman in the street.
It was not an authentic handicraft, but she seemed to be working hard and
asked for four dollars. I gave her five.
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I did find what I went into the town to look for: A Christian couple selling authentic local
craftwork for which the money went back to the craftspeople, each of whom had a
little shelf space in the tiny store. I
bought a hand-made bracelet for my daughter and a copy of this book, which I
highly recommend. It tells the real
story of poverty on Roatan, with no Walt Disney ending to it.
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We booked a canopy tour excursion for seven of us through
Caribe Sky, which did an excellent job.
It was my first time zip-lining and I did feel that their safety
standards were good. We had with us our
three oldest children ranging from eight to fourteen years old, and I was not
worried about them, even when they zipped alone. This is one of their promotional photos which
was on the photo CD that they sold us for ten bucks, which has to be the best
price in the Caribbean (you don’t want to know what the Costa Maya dolphin
encounter photo CD cost… well, maybe you do: I believe it was about $120, but
the dolphin-kissing photos were really well-done).
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Caribe Sky had ten or twelve lines, the longest of which was
almost two thousand feet. I myself
would be satisfied with a quiet observant walk through the jungle, but young
people today always expect more whiz-bang in everything they do. That’s the “new normal”, where the focus is
on somewhat passive entertainment (strapped like a ham shank to a glorified
clothesline??) rather than active interactional experience (walking under one’s
own power, contacting, discovering). This
jungle looked beautiful but I was struck by the eerie silence of the entire
place. I heard only one bird in about
three hours. I don’t know why this
was. Was it the depth of the winter
season? Or have Roatan's poorest
people eaten all the jungle creatures by now?
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Our next stop was Belize, which had to be
reached by tender. The security wall separating
the city from the cruise pier was hilarious, with street vendors soliciting
customers via the squeezing some message and/or body part through every
available orifice, both above ground… |
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…and at ground level (this view being a view from outside
the secure area as the peddler is petitioning from beneath the gate).
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We ventured outside the envelope of cruise-sponsored
excursions and hired a randomly-encountered taxi vendor named Carlos Lopez to
take ten of us on a tour of the city and then to a small private man-made beach
/ bar / gift shop area called Cucumber Beach (again, not my choice of venue,
but we had small toddlers with us and they needed a small shallow area in which
to splash). We negotiated $80 for Mr. Lopez’s
services and he required only $20 of it up front, which made us comfortable
that we were not going to get stood up by him.
The beach itself cost about $10 for each adult to enter, less for each
child.
I felt quite comfortable with Mr.
Lopez. He was a good driver and an
absolute walking encyclopedia of Belize’s history and culture. He pointed out all sorts of features that I
would never have noticed and told many stories with humor. For me, that's what the experience of a place
is all about. Not going ashore and
sipping a margarita in yet another mindless bar. I want to learn something of the people and
the place. Otherwise, I’ve traveled all
that way for nothing.
Mr. Lopez asked us
to recommend him on Cruise Critic, which I will. Here’s another example of the internet
connecting people and empowering individuals – cutting out the middle men, who
almost always take the lion’s share of the money. How many middle-class American families
would jump off a cruise tender in Central America and put their lives in
the hands of the first local van driver they encounter in the street? Not many – it’s arguably not the safest
course of action. But if you can vet the guy on the internet, it’s a total game-changer.
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I noticed this curious sight: there were many chickens running through the
parking lot at Cucumber Beach, and they looked superbly healthy, like this
rooster. Seeing this, I ordered a
chicken dish from the bar menu, and it was wonderful. It did not taste like factory-farm-raised
American chicken. I wonder why??
:-)
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Mennonites in Belize.
Reportedly, they have a corner on much of the local fruit and vegetable
production. |
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“Umma rat on you, hah hah!!!” Isn’t this cool?? Who would have taken the time to selectively vandalize
that government vehicle with such skill and cleverness?? |
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I wouldn’t drink the water, but if you witness a street
vendor wield a machete and slaughter a chilled coconut on your personal behalf,
apparently it’s safe to drink that coconut milk. At least eight of us did so (most of us
without rum being added to ours), and nobody got sick afterward. This vendor was a true man of the islands,
making for a posed photo which is a real study in human contrasts, in more ways
than one.
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I bought three locally-made items in Belize. The first was this beautiful tropical
hardwood kitchen cutting board I got for $20.
You’ll note from the label that the description does not reflect a very
sophisticated use of English. This
suggests to me that the item might be authentic, rather than made in China and
passed off as local (although some stuff from China is similarly unsophisticated). See how they named each species of wood at
the bottom of the label? Well, every
cutting board on the sales shelf had a different sequence of wood types, and the
makers had taken meticulous care to arrange each strip of labels to match
the pieces – they were all different.
That, too, suggests local production to me.
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I also spent $10 on this little basket which was
allegedly made by a Mayan womens’ cooperative… |
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… and $25 on this Mayan-inspired slate carving
sold by a vendor who insisted on showing me both his driver’s license and his
union card, to prove to me that he was the same guy who made it (it’s signed on
the back). You’ve learned something new
today: one has to join a union in order to be an artist in Belize. That fact alone is worth $25 in sympathy
donation.
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Now, back to the RC Mariner of the Seas itself.
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I did not partake of most onboard activities on either
cruise ship, but because I like ice skating, we took in this ice dancing show
on the Mariner, which was excellent…
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…and then a few days later, something quite unprecedented
happened: there were probably a dozen public ice skating sessions, of which I
took our kids to three, but there was only one “advanced skating” session,
where cruisers had to furnish their own skates (and skill). And I was the only one who showed up for that,
of the 3,600 or so cruisers on board. So
basically, I checked an item off my bucket list here but it was an item I
hadn’t even put on my bucket list because it was out of reach: Private ice.
By default, I was granted private ice for the first time in my
life. In the exact middle of the Gulf of
Mexico, of all places.
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Flying in four-foot seas.
The rolling of the boat surprisingly did not present a balance problem (because
of the ship’s large size, it doesn’t roll with nearly as much amplitude as the
waves, but it’s still quite noticeable).
The rolling reminded me very much of skating over tidal ice heaves in
the North Atlantic, a childhood story about as far removed from my life in
Galveston County as anything ever could be.
I have only skated about a half-dozen times in the past forty years, but
this is much like a yoga Warrior 3, except with forward motion.
:-)
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OK, now we need a few arty shots just to round things out
before closing.
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Sky as seen from the Belize tender. OMG, crushing cruise crowds or not, this view
simply never gets old.
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Near sunset, with a Carnival ship just for scale. Wow.
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Another sunset. |
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“Mommy, there’s something glittering,” my child said. We know that our return sail is bringing us
closer to Galveston when we start seeing these shining in the night.
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All the best in 2013!
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Release of the balloons at midnight New Year’s Eve 2013,
interior promenade of the Mariner.
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